Rollin' on the River

Original airdate: May 30, 2009

Two Crazy Chicks Productions, in association with WorldWildPhotoGraphics and What Am I Going to Tell Your Mother? Productions, is proud to present Episode 4 of The Adventures of Yumiko and Eden: Return to Belize...

“Butts up!” Luis, the cave tubing guide, is a short, rotund man wearing a black mesh tank top and electric blue Crocs.

It’s the end of the dry season and the Sibun River is running low. Low enough in places to endanger the gluteal areas of our intrepid heroines, who are floating in inner tubes through the inky darkness of a long cave. Their headlamps, the sole source of light, illuminate roosting bats and spectacular limestone formations.

“Remember, feet first through the rapids, then paddle backwards to the left!”

The three cavers blink owlishly when they finally emerge into the sunlight. Refreshingly cool waters the color of jade carry them leisurely through pristine jungle, but Eden and Miko are feeling the effects of sun exposure by the time they exit the river and make their way to the waiting van.

They check into their Belize City B&B late that afternoon.  Too tired even for a cocktail – perhaps the result of having risen especially early to catch their flight from Placencia – they promptly collapse in an undignified heap onto the bed.

The following day finds our fearless females on a river once again. Sightings of coati, kingfishers, and snail kites make the 26-mile journey as interesting as the destination: Lamanai.

The once mighty Mayan city lies in magnificent ruin. Over the centuries, the jungle has reclaimed much of the site, concealing its vastness. High in the trees, indolent howler monkeys sleep while our dynamic duo gazes in awe upon the Mask Temple and the Temple of the Jaguar.

At the ball court it is not difficult to imagine the game’s victor kneeling on the round stone slab to claim his reward, a “get out of hell free” card with a catch – it must be redeemed immediately. Death by beheading was apparently a small price to pay for such a prize.

The towering High Temple is especially impressive and Eden is ecstatic to hear that she is permitted to climb the 112-foot high architectural marvel. Miko, ever the more grounded of the two, is not inclined to make the steep ascent, so she merely watches as Eden, sweating profusely in the relentless midday sun, leads the charge up. The payoff: a spectacular panoramic view – and a dangerous descent that Eden makes with unusual care.

Our intrepid heroines return to Belize City, their awareness of its seediness heightened by having viewed such majestic evidence of the area’s former glory. They look forward anxiously to tomorrow's departure from its environs.

© Eden Feuer