R & R (Rats & Relaxation)

Original airdate: June 2, 2009

Two Crazy Chicks Productions, in association with WorldWildPhotoGraphics and What Am I Going to Tell Your Mother? Productions, is proud to present the sixth and final episode of The Adventures of Yumiko and Eden: Return to Belize...

“You can’t be serious! You want to… to… to,” Eden sputters, “to spend the day relaxing?!”

Yumiko nods.

Eden is aghast, but she swallows her protests. After all, this trip is for Yumiko, about Yumiko. So Eden will suck it up and do… nothing. Even if it kills her. Which it very well might.

Under the watchful eye of three friendly island cats, our intrepid heroines make themselves comfortable in hammocks.

Miko reads.

Eden watches the people go by.

Miko continues to read.

Eden solves a crossword puzzle.

Miko reads some more.

Eden writes in her journal.

Miko turns a page.

Eden fires up the computer, logs into her email account, and IMs with her mother.

Miko keeps reading.

Eden logs off. She pets a cat. She studies her toes.

Miko turns another page.

Eden hypothesizes aloud that coconut rum reduces the stress of relaxing.

Miko looks up from her book. She thinks that the idea has validity and further postulates that coconut rum heightens the state of relaxation.

In the name of scientific inquiry, they decide to test this theory.

The evidence suggests that moderate coconut rum consumption does in fact induce a pleasant languor. In Eden’s case, however, said languor dissipates relatively quickly and it’s not long before she is once again wondering how she is going to make it through the afternoon.

Miko takes pity on her. The two stroll along Caye Caulker’s sandy streets, marveling at the changes nine years have wrought. They watch frigatebirds and pelicans fight for scraps as a fisherman cleans his catch. They wander over to the Lazy Lizard Bar to observe the people and take in the sunset. They chat with colorful island character Ras Creek, a seminal figure in the development of Hol Chan Marine Reserve. They eat dinner at a local restaurant before finally wandering back to their hotel room to pack.

Man, Eden thinks as she drifts off to sleep, this relaxing thing is exhausting.

Our fearless females catch the 6:30 water taxi to Belize City in order to spend their final morning of vacation exploring Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary. With the assistance of renowned birder Lascelle Tillet, they identify 46 species of birds, including vermilion flycatcher, jabiru stork, and acorn woodpecker.

A quick stop for lunch yields an opportunity to try gibnut, a nocturnal rodent and prized game animal of the Neotropics that can grow 2 feet long and weigh up to 22 pounds.

Eden can just hear her mother saying, “You know that’s not kosher.”

Eden and Miko deem “The Queen’s Rat” (so named because it was served to Queen Elizabeth on her visit) edible but unexciting.  Though definitely better than camel (blech!), it's nowhere near as tasty as kangaroo. Perhaps next time they will order iguana.

Thus fortified for the journey home, they head for the airport and say goodbye to their beloved Belize.

“Welcome back,” Eden’s mother greets our intrepid heroines upon their return. “Never mind about the earthquake. What’s this I hear about your eating a rat?!”

© Eden Feuer

Raggamuffin Children

Original airdate: May 31, 2009

Two Crazy Chicks Productions, in association with WorldWildPhotoGraphics and What Am I Going to Tell Your Mother? Productions, is proud to present Episode 5 of The Adventures of Yumiko and Eden: Return to Belize...

“Ya, mon!” the dreadlocked captain calls out cheerily as the sail catches the Caribbean breeze, propelling the Ragga King easily through the shallow emerald sea off Caye Caulker. In an otherwise blue sky, a smattering of clouds hints at the coming rainy season and frigatebirds soar overhead.

Passengers in various states of undress lie on the deck, basking like iguanas in the hot tropical sun. The smell of suntan lotion and salt is strong in the air. Heads bob to the beat of the reggae music blasting from below deck.

    

“Here we are, my friends,” the captain announces as the sailboat anchors at Belize’s barrier reef. “Our first stop: Coral Gardens.”

   

Our intrepid heroines and their companions swiftly don mask and flippers, then slide into the warm water.

   

“Manatees!”

   

Two of the gentle giants are clearly visible in the blue depths.

It is exhilarating and humbling to swim alongside something so large – the average adult West Indian manatee is about 9.8 feet long and weighs between 800-1,200 pounds – and thus it is a very happy group of snorkelers that reboards the sailboat.

“Look! Sharks!”

The second stop, Shark-Ray Alley, lives up to its moniker. Eden is the first to dive into waters teeming with nurse sharks, southern stingrays, blue tangs, yellow-tailed snappers, and sergeant majors. More than a dozen other equally entranced gawkers soon join her, watching in fascination as the area’s remarkably docile denizens glide gracefully within touching distance.

“Everybody back on board!”

It is with great reluctance that Miko and Eden return to the Ragga King, but the third stop, The Cut at Hol Chan Marine Reserve, with its bright corals and abundant sea life, is just as spectacular as Shark-Ray Alley – and offers our fearless females an opportunity to get up close and personal with a sea turtle. It is the perfect way to end the day’s snorkeling.

Still dripping, they let the lengthening rays of the sun dry them as the sails unfurl and the 40-foot wooden ship begins the hour and a half return trip. Conversation with their fellow adventurers – an interesting mix of people from around the world – is easy and light, facilitated as much by shared experience as by the rum punch that is flowing freely. The captain, first mate, and several bikini-clad women dance on the deck.

The Ragga King docks more than a bit late, disgorging its sunburned, less than sober passengers onto the laid back little island. With a deep sense of satisfaction, Eden and Miko gather their gear and make their way slowly home along the sandy street. 

Be sure to tune in for episode 6, when Eden faces her greatest challenge yet.

© Eden Feuer

Related link: Raggamuffin Tours